Food is: Culture

Culture

By definition culture stands for the characteristics of a particular group of people, defined by everything from language, religion, cuisine, social habits, music, and arts. Culture is learned, not inherited; it is passed from generation to generation through language acquisition and socialization. Changing and adapting over time, culture responds to social dynamics, environmental conditions, and socioeconomic segregation. Every aspect of food from its cultivation, preparation, and consumption, represents a cultural act. The “choices” made by hunter and gatherers determined by a culture of economics (availability) and medicine (digestibility and nutrition), led to the development of social structures and traditions. The variation of food habits and recipes have allowed food to acquire its own language and grow into a complex culture product shaped by climate, geography, the pursuit of pleasure, and the desire for health. Every meal encompasses a story of social standing, religious background, personal identity, and lifelong memories.

The moment humans began to form settlements and societies, food transformed from a means of nourishment to a symbol of status and identity. In Christianity, bread represents the body of Christ in the sacrament of communion. White bread is typically eaten by upper classes, dark bread by the poor, and whole wheat by those more concerned with health than status. In ancient times, Greek soldiers took a piece of bread from home to ensure their safe, victorious return from war, English midwives placed a loaf at the foot of a mother’s bed to prevent evil spirits stealing the woman and baby, and sailors traditionally brought a bun to sea to prevent shipwreck.

  

Inherently, people began to connect eating as a representation of who they are and who they are not. In the Middle East, one who eats pork is probably Roman Catholic or Orthodox Christian, not Jewish or Muslim. Eating is a daily reaffirmation of affiliations and beliefs. Food holds a special worth to a person, even after the development of a new diet due to acculturation. When someone from one ethnicity moves to an area with different cultural norms, acculturation takes place as adaption to the new majority society begins. Culturally based food habits are often the last practices people change through acculturation. Eating often occurs in the privacy of one’s own home, hidden from observation and scrutiny. However, the lack of available native ingredients, convenience, and cost factors force an individual into immediate acculturation.

 

Furthermore, Food preparation and seasoning fall second in importance to the selection of ingredients. A dish flavored with fermented fish sauce is associated with Southeast Asian, not Chinese, Norwegian, or Brazilian. A typical flavor combination in West Africa is tomatoes, onion, and chili peppers sautéed in palm; whereas, in the Pacific Islands, a flavor profile is coconut milk or cream with a little lime juice and salt. A common food such as yams can easily fall under either cultural profile based on its spice, sauce, or preparation. Nevertheless, regional variations are something to consider as flavor principles serve more like a marker for each culture rather than a doctrine. In China, northern dishes often include seasonings enhanced with soybean paste, garlic, and sesame oil; whereas, the south enjoys the addition of fermented black beans.

On the corporate end of the cultural discussion, companies are not blind to these obvious food preferences. Businesses such as Nestle, identify specific preference for characteristics such as saltiness or crispness varies by gender, age, ethnicity, and nationality. They exploit the fact that older generations prefer strong flavors due to worn down taste buds, Asians prefer salty, crisp snacks, and Americans like new flavors, but still lean toward “nostalgia driven flavors” that remind them of their childhood. It is seen from observational and demographic studies that Muslims enjoy heavily spiced meat dishes; whereas, Beijing likes strong flavor and wheat-based foods with lots of salt.

Where We Are

America’s Association to Food

The United States is known across the world for its fast food, corporate farming, and bad eating habits. The stereotypical American diet consists of meat and potatoes, which is an indicator alone for the country’s high obesity rates and failing food system. With the rapid advancement of technology in the past century, restaurant kitchens shifted away from traditional cooking practices to production-line prototypes, standardization, self-service, and rapid food production. The book Fast Food Nation, describes the direct affect fast food has made in the workforce, landscape, culture, and how food is produced in America. The nation takes popular, cultural dishes and “Americanizes” them to fit a more general audience, yet leads the public to believe it’s the real thing.

America grows increasingly each year as a melting pot of ethnic, religious, and regional groups. U.S. Census and other demographics show that one in every four Americans is of non-European heritage, and one in every ten residents is foreign born. Data from 2007 indicates that more than 50 percent of all immigrants to the U.S. are from Latin America with Asians making up the second largest group at 17 percent. Each ethnic, religious, or regional group has its own culturally based food habits, which have in turn been modified through contact with the American majority culture.

Where We Want to Be

London’s Association to Food

On the other end of the spectrum, London is a leading global city, with the fifth-largest metropolitan area GDP in the world and is one of the most-visited cities in the world. It has a diverse range of peoples and cultures with more than 300 languages spoken. The social and cultural diversity can easily be reflected in over 60 different cuisines provided in over 12,000 restaurants, which is more than half the nation’s total. Food tourism is a vital part of London’s attraction for visitors between the well-known markets like Borough and Walthamstow, independent corner shops, renowned restaurants, and the unparalleled choice of cuisine. London is constantly working to reconnect the consumers of food with the producers of food through programs such as the European Common Agricultural Policy and National Strategy for Sustainable Food and Farming. The United Kingdom does not cater to fast food like Americans are used to. Eating out for Londoners takes on the role of eating healthy where that does not apply to many here. Portions are smaller and more ornate. Plates from across the world such as Lebanese, Vietnamese, and Turkish are offered with genuine spices specific to that country.  Fast ethnic dishes such as dim sum and lamb pita are more easily available and remain true to their origin.

After personally experience the food culture of London, I find it hard to return to my past food lifestyle. I grew up in a home that relished in new cultural experiences, but these experiences were random and often on vacation to new destinations. I never knew one city could bring together so many taste profiles and traditions, yet keep them true to their origin and so easily accessible. London is the perfect food model for America to reference, but specifically London is iconic in regards to celebrating and sharing every food culture present.

Bring The Market Life to America

One of the things that separate London from the United States and most other countries for that matter is its niche for market life. With numerous markets thriving amongst the different neighborhoods, London makes it easy to find locally sourced produce as well as authentic international street fare. Most are open all week long, but Thursdays-Saturdays are the days you’ll find them at the height of the excitement. London markets have existed across the country for hundreds of years, which is the main reason they are able to thrive so much more than American markets. The city itself is a mecca of diverse cultures and people with more than 300 languages spoken. This translates to the intense knowledge of traditional foods and food practices around the globe seen at the city markets. I like to say I am spoiled because my job at Roast set me right in the heart of Borough market. I may be a little biased, but I believe Borough Market is essentially the best market London has to offer.

“A haven for anyone who cares about the quality and provenance of the food they eat,” one can find an array of customers ranging from chefs, restaurateurs, passionate cooks, tourists relaxing with some street grub, to individuals in search of a quick lunch. The exceptional food isn’t the only thing keeping the market alive with bustling business professionals and wandering tourists; the location plays a large role in Borough’s authenticity and diverture. Situated by the Tower of London under the railroad track leading to Cannon Street Station, the market is a hidden gem to anyone not familiar with the area. Initially walking through Borough’s signature steel, ember green arches, one is led into a maze of stalls of fresh produce and products. Infused olive oils, freshly baked pastries, specially brewed beers, meat cut on the spot, seafood delivered same-day from the boat, it is a place to buy everyday as well as specialty groceries. Following the endless rows of shops, one is then lead to the street faire section. Do not walk into this area if you do not intend on leaving a gut-busting pant size larger because no matter the mood your stomach is in, you will consume either at least 10 samples, either a sandwich or wrap, a buttery croissant, one of Monmouth’s famous coffees, and any of the hundred decadent desserts they have to offer.

Visiting Borough Market, or really any of the markets London has to offer, is like visiting all corners of the world. It is a society of producers and distributors from all over the UK as well as the globe, which bolsters a community of culinary knowledge and understanding. Each stall holds its own unique qualities and authenticity to its owner’s culture. Whether the stallholder is an actual producer, growing, rearing, or baking the food before them, or an importer with an intimate understanding of the products they source, the customer has a direct link to the food they buy and consume. This direct link allows the customer to explore, ask questions, and discover new tastings in a way that is local, personal, sustainable, and beneficial to one’s body.  Markets such as Borough are built on a strong community of individuals who love food and wish to share that love with anyone willing to listen. A big foundation to how the market functions and continues to thrive is its mission to be viable and sustainable; surpluses from the week or even day are reinvested to charitable aims.

 

As I will discuss in my next post, the book End of Food by Paul Roberts explores many notions to the demise of our food system, but the biggest factor seems to be the disconnect people have with the food they consume. This makes people less aware of harmful chemicals behind a crop’s production, destructive environmental byproduct caused by these chemicals, the corruption of the current agribusiness system, ever increasing obesity levels, and so on. A strong market system in place would be a huge step to change this way of life, but it is not an easy step to take. London has an abundance of markets across the city that are so successful because the market culture is engrained in the city’s history. Lived experience is what drives the market life, not the access of knowledge or availability. Americans are stuck in their convenient, fast-food lives because it is how they have grown and what they have always been accustomed to. One cannot change the infrastructure of America, but slowly through our growing food communities and online connections we can encourage and shift these bad food habits. A stronger food connection between the communities and producer to consumer will inhibit a better, sustainable food system for our future.

Along with the Engaged Learning program at SMU and the help of my communication studies advisor Dr. Lynch, I am on a personal mission to see how realistic and possible it is for the average American to stay connected to their everyday diet. Coming off my experience in London, I have hit a point of depression thinking back to all the rich, ethnic food that constantly encompassed my everyday life. There is nothing in comparison to that back in the states. If there is one thing I wish I could expose my peers, family, friends, and community to it would be the market culture. It really is a way of life, not just a hipster hangout with a handful of artisan shops, open once a week selling soaps, banana bread, and painted signs to hang in the kitchen.

Fulfilling My Love of Food in London

Roast Restaurant

I am a self-proclaimed foodie with a one-track mind of all things delicious. My passions in life are eating, cooking, and sharing my love of food with anyone that will listen. I always thought these things were just hobbies until I found a voice in my blog Bite Me. It appeared my food obsession was a normal trend spreading across the nation as food blogging and journalism was an actual career path. Hence, this is where my journey in London all begins.

After a year of scholarship applications and countless babysitting hours, the London internship program became a reality. The weeks leading up to our work placements, I was drowning in emotion. Clearly any assignment in a leading global city like London would be an opportunity of a lifetime, but I clung to the hope of working for something centered on food. Fortunately, the London gods smiled upon me as I opened my letter and gazed upon the quintessential placement for my next 6 weeks abroad: Roast Restaurant.

Perched above Borough Market like a glass cathedral, Roast combines fresh, local food with the classic British experience. The floor to ceiling windows, vast dining room, and open view of the kitchen, make for perfect people watching of the bustling market as well as the drool-worthy creations pushed out by Chef Marcus Verberne and his team. With a mission to use only the best seasonal ingredients, while supporting Britain’s farmers and producers, Roast sources most of its food directly from Borough Market. It is a venue that houses anything from breakfast meeting, weekend family brunches, pre-dinner cocktails, casual lunches, corporate functions, to weddings.

From the first moment we met, my supervisor Debora and I clicked. An Italian photographer turned event planner, Debora has worked with Roast for several years now. She joined the company in search of a new career path and felt an instant connection with the values of Roast. More of a mom than a boss, she made certain every second of my internship was the best. Our relationship resembled more of a friendship, as conversation spanned from serious social media strategies to our favorite sweet treats. Including me in weekly marketing meetings from day one, I was able to give my input and take on projects, such as twitter profiling, survey analyses, and Facebook strategizing. I pride myself in the fact that in the past no intern was given this opportunity. Everyday Debora asked what I would like to do or be a part of because she knew and supported my future aspirations. Learning during our interview that I wish to open my own brasserie one day, she presented me with a restaurant starter book my first day on the job. Now that I am leaving Roast, I cherish every piece of knowledge I gained, but more than anything I value the time I spent getting to know Debora as an employer and as a friend.

Beyond the white walls and computer desks of Roast’s office, Debora had the idea to throw me into every aspect of the restaurant. Each Wednesday, I rotated between serving the floor, mixing cocktails at the bar, and spicing up dishes in the kitchen. With zero experience in the food industry besides whipping up smoothies during my high school days, I was weak at the knees just thinking about jumping into the ranks of this five star, fine dining restaurant.

Getting the hardest job out of the way first, I started week one working the floor. Assuming I would just shadow our server Lucia, bus some tables, and maybe even bring bread to the guests, I could not have been farther from truth. Immediately, I was thrown into taking orders, serving drinks, and rushing to the need of every individual in my VIP section. Not only did I need to pick up plates in a specific order, place table settings at a precise angle, and pour wine like a professional, but I had to do it at a fast pace and for our most important guest, including our owner. At the end of the day, my feet ached, my head was spinning, and I knew Lucia wanted to kill me, even though she refuses to admit it.

My uniform for working in the bar.

My next venture was one I consistently bragged about in the weeks leading up to the experience. Moving from the frantic rush of the floor to the carefree atmosphere of the bar, I literally drank up every minute of my time. My trainer Bridget and I tested and experimented with various drink ingredients, making a game of it to see which flavors I could guess without looking. I quickly picked up the flow of things and became a certified barista and bartender in less than an hour. Though my skills may still need some refining, I have a new passion for mixing drinks that I will pursue once back in The States.

Fulfilling my lifelong dream of working in a restaurant kitchen.

The biggest highlight of my time with Roast came the two days I spent floating through the kitchen. White coat and Roast-stitched hat on, I felt like my lifelong dream of becoming a professional chef was finally coming true. Clearly, I did not graduate from Cordon Bleu, so I expected to just wash dishes the whole time, but Chef Marcus had something else on his mind. Day one, I began by cutting and preparing vegetables and eventually made my way to making the traditional Scotch Eggs. Chef Marcus immediately took me under his wing as he prepared his favorite menu dishes, showed me essential cooking techniques behind each, and let me devour every last morsel by the end. Day two, I was tasked with separating and fileting squid. Impressed by my knife work, I pride myself in knowing not many can say they have done that before. Afterwards, I spent most my time admiring the pastry work of a young man from Algeria. Knowing my weakness for all things ice cream, he built a luscious tower of pineapple, black cherry, and dark chocolate gelato covered in whipped topping and cream just for me. Needless to say, we quickly became best friends as we discussed our favorite cultural foods, while I indulged in his sugary creation.

As cliché as it sounds, my time at Roast Restaurant is one I will never forget. Between the work atmosphere, venue location, staff interaction, job responsibilities, and organizational mission, I have gained vital experience I could never recreate. It’s been a dream come true, giving me crucial insight into the foodie industry.  The past 6 weeks seem unreal when I reflect on all the projects and tasks I have been a part of. In addition, I love the environment and mix of cultures between the staff. From the office to cooking staff to waiters to bartenders, individuals come from all over Europe with only a few real Brits. This makes for a bantering, playful environment, where no one is safe from teasing.  The people are the ones that have truly made my experience so memorable. I never felt like an intern, but like an actual member of the Roast team, which really separates the company and my time here from most others.

London Eats: Mosob

Monday’s family dinner came with a lot of pressure, as it was my responsibility to pick the restaurant for the whole group. I had a lengthy list of London restaurants already, so it was essentially an easy task, but I needed to take into account price points, the cultural diversity of the cuisine, location, and the fact that it was Saturday night and I needed to book a place that could sit 16 people by Monday. I had two places in mind that both served African fare. The likelihood that the other students had tried this food before (especially since I myself had not) was very unlikely, so I figured it was a solid bet. However, both my options were pretty popular spots, so I couldn’t squeeze our oversized party into the restaurants before 10 pm. Using my foodie resarch skills I found another African eatery with raving reviews: Mosob.

After a few hiccups in our trek to the restaurant the group finally made it to dinner a little past 7. I could definitely see some skepticism in the others’ faces as the backdrop to our walk was rather sketchy, but the moment we stepped inside, intrigue flushed over everyone’s faces from the traditional African décor to the lively owner.  We were seated in a large room built to support a group atmosphere. With cushioned seats lining the walls, small tables dispersed throughout, and woven stools pushed alongside, it felt very communal and together. As I plopped down next to Lee, our other advisor for the trip, I felt like I was back in kindergarten at the coloring table, but it was a good feeling. I enjoyed the change from long tables and stiff quarters where you could only talk to the few sitting around you to the open space, where everyone could be heard. The name Mosob itself stands for the traditional hand-woven serving table where people gather to eat together.

 

Our host for the evening and son of the owner boomed with excitement to share the traditions, customs, and food of his culture. He interacted and engaged with us, explaining the origin of the Eritrean culture, which comes from Sinus Erythraeus, the name given to the red Sea by Greek tradesmen in the third century BC. During this time, the Red Sea was known as the “Spice Coridor” in which Eritrea was the hub where all kinds of goods, such as spices, coffee, frankincense, and precious metals were traded. This explains why Eritrean cuisine has flavors stemming from Africa, Arabia, Asia, and Italy.

The food is centered around an Eritrean staple: Injera. This slightly sour, yet pleasing yeast-risen flatbread is unique with its spongy texture. In making injera, teff flour is mixed with water and allowed to ferment for several days, much like a sourdough starter. Ready to bake, it is tossed onto a specialized electric stove or a clay plate placed over a fire. The resulting product is a large, flat pancake with a relatively smooth texture to the side that touched the heating surface and a porous structure on the opposite. This porous structure is what makes injera so convenient for scooping up sauces, vegetables, and meats.

With each course came a grand presentation of the food’s history as well as the customary way to eat it. Our main course arrived on large platters covered by what looked like woven hats, which were then removed to reveal an array of meats, vegetables, and sauces. From the unveiling to the great spectacle of cuisine before us, silence fell across the room as excitement to dig in swept through. The mix of flavors, textures, and spices alone set this meal apart from any I’ve had before, but the way in which we were taught to eat is what made it so enjoyable for me. No utensils and barely any napkins provided, one is supposed to tear off a piece of injera bread and use it to scoop up every delectable bite. This of course leaves your hands and face dripping of sauce, but no cares because they are too mesmerized by the tangy yogurt and fiery harissa that pair magically with each mouthful. I loved the relaxed atmosphere that stripped the air of regular, uptight table manners.

 

Mosob transforms the norm of restaurant eating to one centered on experience, community, learning, and of course the unique food. The staff is welcoming to the point that the restaurant feels more like a neighbor’s home. If I had a permanent residency in London, I would definitely be a regular to this place.

Weekend In Review: May 31-June 2

I went into this experience dreaming of the time I would spend working, living, and studying London, but it’s become so much more than that. It’s a chance for me to get to know people I would never have met otherwise. It’s a unique opportunity for me to grow as a professional and stronger individual. It’s a time for me to make mistakes, get lost, and keep moving forward. More than anything though, it’s provided me a quirky group of people I can honestly call family. Yes, it’s only been a two weeks, but I feel like I’ve known these people forever. I can be my awkward, strange, foodie self and feel completely at home doing it. This past weekend really solidified that.

Friday

I officially started my internship with Roast Restaurant working a 10-5 day, 4 days a week (I’ll give my full rundown of how amazing my job is in a later post, so stay tuned). Not bad hours at all, but it is pretty exhausting by the end of it. Though, the best part of it is lunchtime when I can head downstairs and I step straight into the heart of Borough Market, a thriving food market with accents from every corner of the world. Packed with travelers and locals alike eyeing the street food carts, surrounding shops, and produce selections, it is the place to be in London come Thursday-Saturday.

This day in particular was a treat because Katie and Maggie came by to snag some lunch with me on their break. I headed for an Italian run meat and cheese shop to pickup a sandwich my supervisor recommended. I am not sure what it is called, but for now we can just name it DELICIOUS. A blend of arugula, fresh Parmesan shavings, and prosciutto wrapped in what looks like a tortilla and pressed. Such simple ingredients, but combined make utter perfection. The sharpness of the cheese mixed with the saltiness of the prosciutto and the strong notes of arugula work together to knock your taste buds on their butts. I tried to wait for Maggie and Katie to pick up their lunch items, but my hunger and foodie joy couldn’t stop me from consuming my sandwich in 2 minutes flat. They didn’t seem to mind when we came by a fresh-out-of-the-sea oyster bar. When I told Maggie I had never actually tried oysters before she made sure to set me up with a fully loaded shell of vinegar, onion, and the slimy mollusk. It was definitely a food I am glad I can say I have now eaten, but will never order again. I mean who wants to eat something you have to toss back and not even fully enjoy the taste sensations?

When I came home from work I managed to get a run in around Hyde Park and met Maggie at the grocery to pick up items to make our very own Pimm’s, a popular London drink featuring gin, soda, and various fruit wedges. One of my great passions in life is perusing the grocery for fun items to try, so it made me a little giddy inside when Maggie expressed these mutual feelings.

After properly circling the store about 20 times, we grabbed enough food to make a feast of various eats and drinks. Maggie was the chef for night and she did a fine job between her smorgasbord of cheeses, toasted bread, dips, Indian chicken curry, and of course our refreshing Pimm’s.

Saturday

Struggling to pull myself out of bed, I had a rather large list of things I wanted to accomplish throughout the day, but the prospect of that happening was rather slim. However, Lauren, Raquel, and I did manage to meet the other CAPA students at Westminster for a reenactment of the famous Beatles pose across Abbey Road. Almost getting hit by the frustrated London traffic, we definitely stuck out as some touristy Americans.

Lauren and I then moved on to Portobello Market for some food and shopping. Located in Notting Hill, the market is surrounded by beautiful, eccentric buildings that lead you down the never-ending road of vintage thrifts, antiques, eats, edgy clothes, produce, and pretty much anything your heart desires. If I could sum up my experience in one word it would be OVERWHELMING. On a mission for some mind-blowing street food and something to take to dinner at Lynch’s home later in the day, I pushed through the fighting crowds like a lost puppy. I wanted to make sure I surveyed all my eating options before settling on a decision, but my stomach was beyond angry at that point, so Lauren and I broke down at a stand with chorizo, grilled onion, arugula, and tomato sandwiches. Quickly moving on as we had so much ground to cover and very little time before we needed to meet at Lycnh’s, I scarfed down my purchase as I walked. It only took Lauren a block before she informed me my face was covered with half the entities of my sandwich…seems to be a common occurrence for me.

Sadly Lauren and I didn’t find the haven of all things glorious in the food realm until after we stuffed our faces. I was legitimately pissed as I examined this international food section of dreamy creations. My mind said get everything, but my stomach was already in physical pain from the other food we ate. However, I did manage to buy some Japanese dumplings along with a rather dashing army jacket.

Meeting up with the rest of the group in Chelsea, we made our way to Lynch’s family home where his mother, father, brother, and family friends were cooking for us. This home is probably the cutest, most gorgeous little place I’ve ever seen. When I move to London after college, I am buying this house and Lynch’s mom is well aware of this.

So for the next four hours we popped bottles, threw back some Pimm’s, ate an amazing home-cooked British meal, and fell even more in love with Lynch’s family by every second. This day is by far one of my favorites as dinner was the perfect setting to relax, eat, and enjoy good company.

Sunday

Rise and shine! It’s Bath time! Maggie, Katie, and I thought it was only necessary to put our Brit Rail passes to some use and take a daytrip somewhere. After much consideration, we settled on Bath to explore the Roman Baths.

A quick hour ride and we were plopped in the middle of a Harry Potter film with the great overlooking mountains, castle-like buildings interspersed among the storybook Roman architecture, and the flowing rivers throughout the city. For me, it’s a city with not a whole lot to do, but you could spend days wondering the streets, gawking at its beauty.

We took a quick tour of the Roman Baths and stopped at Gascoyne Place for some lunch. Obviously, I was in a state of euphoria the moment I realized they had a meat and cheese plate, but when our Sunday beef roast arrived, my day was officially made. My first British roast and it was a magical experience.

We then toured the Jane Austin experience before settling at a quant café perched over the main city river. With a perfect view of the city, we admired its beauty for a good hour, while munching on various niblets. Bath is breathtaking and it’s definitely a destination everyone should check off their bucket list.

Afterthoughts

A quintessential weekend after our first few days of work, I can’t think of anything that could have made it better. London has so much to offer and I am loving every minute of it.

London Eats: Lahore Kebab House

The London experience isn’t just based around an internship abroad. A central part of the program is nightly class after work for a little lesson on globalization as well. The real perk to this is Monday night class, which meets at a local restaurant with authentic food from different cultural regions far different than anything we could experience back in the States. Now in saying that, I promise we do actually learn concrete information in a classroom the other three nights of the week, but this is what makes Professor Lynch the great mentor he is. We have the opportunity to not just hear about the history and breakdown of the world, but we experience it as well.

Week one took the group down the road of curry lamb, spiced dahls, sweet onion bhaji, tender naan bread, and endless helpings of spiced chickpeas. Pakistani food is one of my favorites, but one I rarely indulge in back home because it’s so hard to find. Guaranteed there are restaurants around that I could venture into, but the genuine flavors, cooking techniques, and tradition are not there. That is why our journey to The Original Lahore Kebab House was one for the books.

To start, we munched on popadums, a crisp dish-shaped dough made of black gram and fried to utter perfection. It may just be the fact that I am Texan and love some good tortilla chips with my meal, but they definitely hit the spot. Accompanied with a vegetable salad, mint yogurt sauce, and sweet chili sauce, popadums may only be separated for distribution Ninja style. With a swift karate chop down the center, hands then swarm upon the plate for a sizeable portion to consume.

As the waiters brought out our food gradually with many portions to pass around, we were really able to try everything Pakistani food has to offer. Between spicy tandoori chicken, jeera rice, kahari chicken, grilled spicy lamb chops, chana masala, and so much more, I shoveled great portions of each dish like I hadn’t eaten for days. It was as if my taste buds were in a state of utter disbelief of the flavor and texture combinations. I am so used to the Americanization of cultural foods such as this that when I actually experience it, it’s as if Lahore conducted some foodie miracle.

This dining experience mixed with flowing conversation and great friends, made for a perfect start to our London journey. I highly recommend Lahore to anyone in the area, as it is a great price for some of the best Pakistani food I have experienced. Now my only issue is finding food that can compare even in the slightest back in the U.S…

London Eats: Look Mum No Hands

Located in what seems to be a deserted district of London right off the Barbican Station stop, Look Mum No Hands is causing quite an uproar and it’s only getting better. Colliding two of the hippest trends of today, this place’s cool factor ranks off the charts. A bicycle café-bar-workshop that really does do it all, the full functioning kitchen splits space with a bike repair shop featuring two mechanics. Owners Matt Harper, Lewin Chalkley, and Sam Humpheson were just a couple guys that liked bikes a good coffee, but now it seems they have the million-dollar idea when it comes to food and service.

Look Mum No Hands caught the eyes of our wondering group after a visit to the Museum of London as the perfect spot to satisfy our angry stomachs. Walking up to the open patio nestled beneath some overhanging trees, we immediately spot a cyclist gang gathered in the back section. Intimidation flushed over me as I felt like I just walked into a secret clubhouse, but these unwarranted feelings quickly passed the moment I stepped inside the actual cafe. The friendly staff is all smiles, suggestions, and efficiency as the cashier patiently answers all my questions and guides me toward actually ordering. My normal foodie indecisiveness mixed with my desire to try every British dish, made my order time pretty much triple in length.

The interior of Look Mum No Hands is rustic, edgy, and a splash of vintage. With exposed pipe, stringing race flags, thrifty knick-knacks, and dangling bike wheels garnishing every inch of the walls, the shop’s quirky concept is easily reflected everywhere you see. The numerous, long wooden tables are inviting for big families or groups of friends, but the social atmosphere encourages strangers to gather together as well.

Snagging a table in the open air, our group takes full advantage of the day’s rare sunny London weather. As we solve the rather hard riddles of Professor Lynch’s 5-year-old daughter, I scan the various tables surrounding ours with envy of every plate. The moment our orders arrive, I manage to take about a millisecond to really appreciate the colors, smell, and presentation of the great feast before me, but then I put all my focus into consuming every last crumb.

Keeping the menu seasonal, Look Mum No Hands really aims towards local, sustainable food as they get fresh shipments of fruit and vegtables every day. From authentic British pies to super salads to hot, creamy soups and stews to homemade cakes this place won’t leave you hanging. There’s gluten-free, vegetarian, and meat-lover options galore.

Sweet Potato soup with coconut and coriander

Chicken and mushroom meat pie with fresh vegetable salad

Sourcing their coffee from Square Mile coffee down the road, their obsession for brewed perfection is clearly seen in But if coffee isn’t your thing or it’s just that kind of day then you’re in for a treat because this place is serving up smoothies, fresh juices, wine, and in their own words, “BEER!” The bar is stocked with Bath Ales, Suffolk Cider, continental beers, a local favorite Kernel, and their own house beer, Slag.

From hipsters putting on the façade of cycle couriers to the more serious roadies sporting Le Tour jerseys, Look Mom No Hands doesn’t discriminate. The late night film and race screenings are open to the public and everyone is encouraged to join in on weekly rides. Whether you own a bike or just want to enjoy the cool ambience, be sure to try this place out as a fun place to relax on the weekends, chit-chat over drinks, or crank out that last minute research paper.

Even though it isn’t the closest to our flat, I will be taking full advantage of Look Mum No Hands’ free wifi and good eats as much as I can while on this trip.

Wrapping Up The Weekend: May 24-26

It’s crazy that it can be rainy and cold pretty much the entire time so far and I still love it. The city still holds this immaculate beauty that can’t be beat. That being said it does kind of suck traveling across town holding my oversized sweater above my head because I was too dumb to bring an umbrella even though I saw that it was about to storm. Whatever, you can’t rain on this London parade…

Friday

Orientation at CAPA took place Friday and pretty much consumed the entire day. The staff is a handful of probably the coolest people that all studied abroad at some point and came back to help spread the love. A mix of some Americans, Canadians, and Brits, they gave us the full rundown of the city workings and the information for each of our internships. Although, our internships aren’t solidified until after our interviews on Tuesday, since it’s Bank Holiday today.

Our other roommates Lauren Wells and Sasha finally joined us after some flight mishaps. Fitting right in, we all ventured over to the Ritz hotel for a grand spread of afternoon tea. Scones, tarts, brownies, cucumber sandwiches, egg salad sandwiches, ham and mustard sandwiches, raisin bread, and lemon bread…I probably should have listened more to the etiquette rules as I dug in like a wild animal. Clotted cream and jam are companions to the scone. A scone on its own is delectable, but if it was socially acceptable, I would eat clotted cream by the spoonfuls it is that heavenly.

Later in the night, Katie (a master of London because she studied abroad there this past semester) took us to Covent Gardens for dinner. The moment I stepped out the station I felt like I had been dropped in the wealthy district of the 1600s. The architecture and buildings have you gawking wide-eyed and mouth open. Right away I knew I would be frequenting this area often with its abundance of shops, restaurants, and atmosphere. It is definitely a place to be in London. From our Vietnamese dinner to Gordon’s Wine Bar to share a bottle of wine, we got a great perspective of the history and diversity that London encompasses. My favorite part of the night was standing on the London Bridge and looking out across the water at the illuminating London skyline.

Saturday

Between the jet lag and massive amount of food I’ve been consuming, I was in dire need of a run. Feeling productive I walked the couple blocks to Hyde Park, switched on my Nike running app, and let the music flow. The park is hugeeee with monuments, statues, big fields with people taking picnics or playing soccer, lakes with floating boats, and so much more. Nervous to take any of the off course trails because I would most definitely get lost, I stuck to just circling the park.

Following my run and some light grocery shopping, I changed to go to the London museum with Raquel, Katie, Maggie, Lauren, Sam, Professor Lynch, and his daughter. One of the many great things about London is they have so many artifacts and historical pieces to display and it is all FO FREE!!

For lunch, we wondered over to Look Mum, No Hands, which is a bike repair shop turned café. Bikes hanging from the ceiling, a big open patio for seating, and what appeared to be biker gangs (as in bicycles not Harley Davidsons people) posting it up near the back, I knew we hit the holy grail. The food here solidified my thoughts with its flaky meat pies and fresh veggie salads. As I licked my plate clean, the group sat outside chatting about future plans and solving riddles from Professor Lynch’s daughter.

Next, we went off into the land of market vendors, street food, and quirky characters at Camden Market. The weekend market packs the streets and leaves little room to move past all the hipster shops. Sam, Lauren, and I broke off to explore the hundreds of stalls and small shops selling clothes, jewelry, art, and gifts. With no sense of direction or aim, we managed to find one of THE BEST ice cream shops known to man. I can say that with unwavering confidence because unless you have been to a shop that makes the most unique, smack-yo-mamma good flavors out of liquid nitrogen, then hold your tongue and continue to read in jealousy. I chose the sweet cherry doughnut concoction with caramelized pretzel, Lauren went for the sweet cherry doughnut with grilled white chocolate (who knew there was such thing but it does exist!), and Sam ordered the classic vanilla (this ain’t no plain jane vanilla though, the rare Indian vanilla pods are infused for 12 hours) with a raspberry compote topping. Let’s just say, my taste buds had me in a state of shock the rest of the day. Camden Market has me sold with its vast spread of foodie options and trendy finds.

The night ended with a trip to the pub for the UEFA Championship Final. The entire day fans were decked with their team colors and associated scarves. Pubs were hard to get into as the entire city swarmed for a pint of beer during the futbol match.  Ducking into a pub with just enough room for the five of us, we stood in the back admiring the jeers and smack talk of the rowdy crowd. One guy definitely didn’t pace himself well as he sat in a sleepless wonder that not even screaming baby could wake.

Sunday

The sun finally managed to find its way back to London for this extended Bank Holiday weekend and everyone was taking advantage of it. Sasha and I were the early risers as we went to meet some of the CAPA  faculty and students from other American universities for a tour of South Bank. However, the moment we stepped out the station the floods of tourists and locals made it impossible to locate anyone. Not able to get ahold of Megan who was leading the walking tour, we decided to just see the sites on our own. The only problem with this was we had no idea what we were looking at…

About 10 minutes into our venture, Megan rang my phone to meet them in front of the London Eye. Flushed with relief we joined forces with the rest of the crew and headed to see a tunnel that hosted legal street art. The area surrounding the South Bank is completely mesmerizing. With huge lawns and parks to picnic or bathe in the sun, alleys of open markets and restaurant, towering theatres and buildings with immaculate architecture, and the flowing river, one could easily get lost in the magic that encompasses the district.

The foodie that I am, I zeroed in on the street vendors toting samples and whipping up cultural creations from around the world. One of the biggest dilemmas so far in my stay here was what option to settle on for lunch. Hog Roast featured sandwiches with some of the juiciest, tender meat accompanied with apple compote, Yumi Japanese Kitchen was working like ninjas dishing out octopus, pork, or vegetarian dumplings with ginger, spring onion, takoyaki sauce and a mayo concoction. Feeling something light, I went with a lamb and chickpea Indian wrap that was loaded with red cabbage, various spices, peppers, and a mint sauce. Sasha and I plopped ourselves down on the vast lawn, took in the great view of the London backdrop, and went to town…mine was easily gone within 5 minutes.

The rest of my Sunday consisted of another scenic run through Hyde Park, a little blogging, and a barbeque dinner in Camden Market that reminded me of back home.

  

 Afterthoughts

Though things definitely have the possibility of going wrong like getting separated on the tube, lost down some backstreets, breaking a shoe from tripping in the streets, or getting the tube doors slammed on you as you hop on…these may or may not have happened to me…these are things that are bound to happen and will make me grow as a traveller, student, and overall person. You can’t let the little things get you down. This is an amazing city with so much opportunity that I can’t wait to explore. I know the next 6 weeks will be  some of the best moments of my life.

Cultural Obsessions: London Tea vs. American Coffee

 Which one would you choose??

   

America has an obsession with coffee. It’s pretty obvious to the entire world between the stereotypical travel-mug toting corporates and the inquisitive iced latte hipsters. Journey across the Atlantic and you have England, a country that enjoys an occasional tall brew with its frequent Starbuck shops and swanky cafes for the purists, but more than anything, England loves its tea. Working in America, one should learn the ropes to a good cup of Joe, but anyone looking to join the workforce in London must master the art tea.

This quintessential English drink didn’t appear in England until the mid 17^th century through Portuguese and Dutch traders. The East India Company did not capitalize on tea’s popularity until the mid-18^th century. Ironically, it was the London coffee houses that introduced tea to England. Thomas Garway, the first coffee house merchant to offer tea, sold both liquid and dry tea to the public as early as 1657. By 1750 tea became the favored drink of Britain’s lower classes.

Afternoon tea originated with Anna Russell, 7^th Duchess of Bedford. In the early 1800’s, she began to have tea in the late afternoon to bridge the gap between lunch and dinner, even though it was typically served later in the night around 8 o’clock. This soon became known as high tea among the working class, but is a stylish social ritual across the English community today. Afternoon tea is a substantial meal with sandwiches, scones, clotted cream, jam, muffins, cookies, tarts, and cake. However, there is Cream Tea or just normal teatime as well, which is a social outing amongst women for tea and a few scones. Brits generally opt for English Breakfast tea during cream tea.

Today each citizen consumes an estimated 1.9 kg or 65 million cups of tea a year in the United Kingdom. Tea is usually black served with milk (never cream) and occasionally one or two teaspoons of sugar. In addition, tea is much more refined and strict than a simple sit-down for coffee. Milk and sugar may only be added after the tea is poured three quarters of the way to the top. Teacups are not mugs, so do not wrap your fingers through the handle or hold it with both hands, but hold the topside of the handle with the thumb, pointer, and middle finger. If you are sitting, hold the teacup, but if standing, hold onto the saucer with the other hand. Lastly, sip the tea slowly while looking into the cup and after each sip return the teacup to the saucer.

This being said, America is known to drink tea, but it is of a completely different kind. Iced tea, which is most often sweet unless otherwise specified, is an iconic symbol of the South. Appearing alongside a barbeque spread or backyard cookout, it can be purchased like soda in a can or bottle. Around 80% of the tea consumed in America is served cold and this is often shown in warmer weather or lower latitudes.

Whereas, coffee in America is an instant caffeine fix, 66% of the British population consumes tea on a daily basis according to the United Kingdom Tea Council. In America, asking someone out for coffee is a go-to catch phrase to gather up friends, but in England one might frequently hear, “I’ll put the kettle on” if a friend stops by to ask for help, advice, or some company.  Some may view it as pride, where others may view it as stubbornness, but these are cultural differences and obsessions that will certainly never fade.

Getting Acquainted With London

It didn’t actually hit until my last hug goodbye to my parents before crossing over to the terminal, that I was actually going by myself to another country on another continent without knowing anyone. I mean this was kind of a big deal. So much could go wrong, but so many amazing things could go right…

The flight to London was no dreamboat ride, but I did feel pretty classy in my little first class nest. Momma Bodden knows how to hook a girl up as I made myself right at home, fully reclining my seat 5A into a flatbed with its accompanying queen-size pillow and duvet comforter. The moment I plopped down the attendant offered me a glass of champagne or evening mimosa along with my dinner menu. Unfortunately, the fact that I don’t turn 21 for another month and we were still on U.S. soil meant the only thing I would be sipping on for the next 8 hours was some chilled orange juice. I felt like I was in a 5 star restaurant when the attendant draped the placemat and napkin across my foldout table before offering me an assortment of breads. First course consisted of grilled shrimp and pineapple with a balsamic salad of berries and pine nuts. The main course was a braised short rib with red wine reduction sauce, cauliflower mash, and spiced carrots. As if I wasn’t full enough (I might have eaten a Cuban sandwich on the way to the airport as well #sorryimnotsorry), the dessert trolley had its eyes locked on me and I couldn’t say no. My fully loaded ice cream sundae put me in the perfect state to close my eyes and drift off into gaga land, but for the next three hours my body seemed to do everything possible to keep me awake. Finally, I switched on the movie Silver Linings Playbook and went to work on my research paper until our eventual arrival in London.

I was extremely nervous to go through customs even though I had nothing to hide. The fact that I didn’t fill out the right papers and had to venture back to my gate to get them didn’t help either. My saving grace came when I saw the sign with my name on it for the car my mom booked to take me to my new home. The thought of trying to find my own way through public transit with two huge suitcases across the city was completely terrifying.

Stepping into my flat, my first thought was “How are 5 girls going to fit all their clothes and luggage into this teeny space?” Well….we’re still working on it! Managing to unpack as much as I could, I knew I had to go meet the rest of the group for an area walk, but my body just wanted to pass out. I’ve heard about jetlag, but you don’t actually know how much it kills until you experience it. I needed sleep and a decent meal ASAP.

Just strolling the surrounding streets I know this is going to be an amazing experience. Everywhere I look I see the history of London in the buildings, landmarks, and architecture. And what makes it even better is that the other students are so open and ready to explore the city. I love being around people with the same excitement to eat, live, and breathe new things.

It wasn’t until we all went shopping for UK phones that I encountered my first hiccup of the trip…I arrived with all my cash in the form of euros. This isn’t so great when London’s currency rate is pounds. Running on zero fuel and about 2 hours of sleep for the past 48 hours I was ready to breakdown. Thankfully, the situation worked itself out and I was going to make it through.

It was only fitting to end Day One at the pub around the corner, since this is the English’s equivalent of going out for coffee or meeting up with friends. Though, I went with water instead of a pint of cider, my chicken sandwich was heavenly on its own. It may have been that I hadn’t eaten for about 7 hours, but my plate was wiped clean within 5 minutes. Not wasting any time, I wondered back to the flat and hit my bed hard for the next 10 hours before our big orientation day.